Interview with Matej Slapar, published in the newspaper Nedelo, 29 March 2020
“Awareness of the importance of good-quality footwear is growing. I believe the days when many people cared only about the price, regardless of the materials used, are slowly coming to an end. More and more people are realising that a spacious shoe made from quality materials is a prerequisite for healthy feet – something that becomes particularly important later in life,” says Matej Slapar, Director of Proalp. Although he views the current global situation with concern, he remains optimistic about the future and full of new ideas.
It’s probably no coincidence that your company is based in Tržič in Slovenia, a town with a long and renowned shoemaking tradition. What is the story behind Proalp?
At Proalp, we are very proud of our shoemaking heritage, which dates back long before the establishment of the Peko company. Peter Kozina founded Peko in Tržič because the town had already earned an excellent reputation for shoemaking.
I also began my career at Peko in the product development department, which at the time was closely connected with global footwear trends. As Peko gradually declined, a colleague and I founded our own development company, where we produced prototype footwear components mainly for the Italian and German markets. Because I was constantly working with new trends, it was only natural that I eventually began designing shoe models for our own brand. We had plenty of knowledge and experience, but I noticed that high-quality footwear was becoming increasingly rare as more and more companies moved production to Asia, where the materials were generally of lower quality.
We chose to specialise in flex-stitched footwear, a manufacturing method that is relatively rare because of its complexity. Living in the mountains and spending so much time there, it was only natural for us to develop a range of hiking shoes, which we continually test on our local mountain trails and refine in every detail.
We sell almost all of our shoes through our own shops, which allows us to stay in close contact with our customers. Over the years, we noticed that more and more people were experiencing foot problems. This inspired us to develop our barefoot footwear range, which we have continued to refine ever since.
What has been the biggest challenge on this journey so far, and what are you most proud of? What is the competition like among footwear manufacturers?
As a shoe designer and manufacturer, I genuinely enjoy both development and production, so I never see them as a burden. I am proud of all the models we have created, but what makes me happiest is the positive feedback we receive from our customers.
As for the competition, we are not too concerned because there are very few companies using the same manufacturing methods as we do. If a customer has feet that differ slightly from the average, we can make every pair to measure. One of our greatest strengths is also our use of high-quality, proven local materials.
You have now found yourselves in a situation unlike anything you’ve experienced before. Life has almost come to a standstill. What is happening at Proalp these days?
Due to the coronavirus pandemic, we had to temporarily close all our shops, and we hope the situation will soon improve so that we can get back to normal. In the meantime, while taking every precaution to prevent the spread of the virus, we are completing existing orders and focusing on developing new models, while also relying on our online shop. We are putting the finishing touches to our barefoot ballerina shoe and are also developing a new high-top mountaineering boot.
Of course, I am concerned. If our shops remain closed for a long time, it could be fatal for our company. Manufacturing does not generate large profits, and whatever we earn is continually reinvested in new product development, which requires significant financial investment.
You source most of your materials from Italy. Are those supply chains still operating?
We mainly use proven Italian materials supplied by our long-standing partner companies in the Vicenza and Treviso regions. We have an arrangement whereby they deliver the materials to Gorizia, where we collect them. As the European Commission has also stressed, the movement of goods across Europe should continue under strict safety measures despite the pandemic. Otherwise, many companies would quickly find themselves in serious difficulty. The real problem is that consumer demand has come to a standstill.
Are you concerned about the future, and have you introduced any measures to adapt to the current situation?
Naturally, I am concerned if business closures and the risk of the virus spreading continue for a long time. For the time being, we will continue producing shoes for stock, but eventually we may also have to suspend production for a while. I hope the government will provide financial support, especially because we are a genuine manufacturing company with strong local roots. I believe our contribution to the economy is far greater than that of businesses that simply import finished goods.
Perhaps this situation will also encourage people to reflect on the importance of maintaining the production of certain goods in Europe and becoming more self-sufficient. We often talk about this in relation to food, but not nearly enough when it comes to products such as clothing, shoes, furniture, and many other everyday essentials.
You make most of your shoes by hand, they can also be custom-made, and you use natural materials. What else sets your footwear apart?
When developing a new shoe, our main priority is the use of high-quality, predominantly natural materials. We aim to create the best possible in-shoe climate, allowing the foot to breathe while preventing excessive moisture build-up. Alongside leather, we increasingly incorporate materials such as linen, wool, hemp, and cork into our models.
Another important element is the shape of the last. We believe in making shoes that are sufficiently roomy and have only a modest heel. We always strive to combine functionality with attractive design.
Although much of our footwear is still made by hand, we also use modern technology where it enhances quality. For example, our hiking footwear is manufactured using specialised pressing equipment, without which it would be impossible to produce truly high-quality hiking boots.
I understand you are among the few manufacturers who still use the traditional flex method of footwear construction. What makes shoes made this way different from others?
The name flex says it all – this construction method makes the shoe more flexible. It is also more durable and more breathable. However, the manufacturing process is much more demanding than conventional cemented (glued) construction. This method is ideal for everyday footwear, while our hiking boots are made using cemented construction with stitched uppers for added strength.
One of our specialities is also a traditional method of making stitched footwear that provides excellent water resistance without the need for a waterproof membrane. This is one of the features that makes our footwear unique. We even produce these shoes for demanding customers, including the Vail ski resort in the United States.
You produce a wide range of footwear, from ballet flats to hiking and mountaineering boots. Which products are currently the most popular?
Alongside our everyday footwear, we manufacture several types of hiking shoes and, over the past two years, barefoot models. Today, I can say that each of these three categories accounts for roughly one-third of our production. Demand for barefoot shoes is therefore very strong. It seems only natural that people who enjoy hiking are also discovering the benefits of barefoot footwear. We often refer to the combination of hiking and barefoot footwear as our “healthy feet” concept.
It is clear that you care deeply about the local community. You were among those who helped the Dovžan family after their home was destroyed by a storm last year. You also emphasise sustainable development. Could you tell us a little more about Proalp’s philosophy?
We are deeply rooted in our local community, and we believe it is important to contribute positively to the environment in which we live and work. I also believe it matters where we source our materials, so we obtain our components from as close to home as possible. Naturally, not everything comes from Slovenia. We also work closely with Italian suppliers, as Italy is renowned for producing some of the world’s finest shoemaking materials. I know the owners of these companies personally, and many of them have become our friends.
All of the materials we use comply with strict European standards and are produced under fair working conditions. Keeping transport distances short is also important to us, which is why almost all of our materials come from within a radius of approximately 350 kilometres.
Another important aspect of sustainability is the long lifespan of our footwear. Shoes that last longer reduce the need to replace them frequently with lower-quality products of questionable environmental value. We also extend the life of our footwear by offering repair services and sole replacement, particularly for our hiking boots.
